Session Reports

The trick to booties is to buy them one size smaller. They fit really snug and almost no water in them. I wear them in the winter or at reefs, haven't started wearing them yet.

ob this morning 6.3' high tide
waves in the knee high range.
horrible, but good exercise.
got 2 waist high barrels in the shore break though. rolling up the beach like a seal

woke up and drove to ob, lots of chop on the water and no waves.
drove up the coast till i got to la jolla then went home.
this weekend is starting to look good

Would you beleive it, yesterday (Thursday) morning was abs. fantastic for me. Everyone thought it's a toally flat day, little did they knew...

Yeah, looks like we're getting something going on Sunday.

Which is great, because I haven't really been surfing since that monster swell a couple weeks ago, and I'm starting to lose weight and get out of shape.

OB was a couple of feet overhead, because of the high tide it was scraping the bottom of the pier. Not good form but defintely big, I had at least a dozen big drops and bail out, totally fun practice for the winter surf. Not many out, the begginers and longboarders could not make it out esier so at most 20 surfers but all spread around.

Some where catching some good ones on the south side and shooting the pier, but it was just for show and needless, the bigger sets where on the north side. Good fun

i'm definetly going out tomorrow.

DP at C St.

Surf was at least head high, probably on average 1 foot over head. Sets definitely a couple feet overhead.

Saw the mathteacher and a few other buds. Yesterday at 15th st, my potato chip was too difficult to cover the paddling distances to catch the slow building waves. Brought a 7'4" Dick Brewer calif gun. Much much better .

On the wave of the day, I waited outside for close to 20 mins. Finally, a set showed up and caught it right at the crest. After doing a bottom turn, I could see this big open face in front of me. I put my hand up and the top was probably a foot above it. That was an incredible drop that took me all the way to the shore.

Best day of the new season by a mile.

Edited by kitasan - 08 November 2009 at 6:36pm

drove around for an hour or so looking for a decent spot to go out.
all the good places in la jolla were really packed.
ended up in ob, waves were bigger today than they were yesterday.
not much of a face to ride, just a huge drop then a close out.
i got 2 really fun rides and 3-4 other waves that were amazing drops with no where to go.
on one of them i got hit by the lip of the closeout. got picked up and pulled over the falls again, very long hold down on that one.
today wasn't to show how good you could ride, but if you had the balls to take off on bigger surf.

smallest wave i caught was at least 2 feet over head. largest wave i caught was a little bigger than 1.5 over head.
surprisingly the 2 waves i got that were good were the biggest ones of the day.
when i was coming in i think the police were closing the pier.
the waves were getting the top wet for sure.
only one huge clean up set while i was out. both waves broke out past the cafe. no clue how big they were, but they were bigger than any waves i've been out in.
had fun, but wish the form was better. maybe tomorrow it will be better since the swell is dropping a little.

Went out early at Sunset cliffs today. Nice big waves. Kind of slow building but great fun. Crowded but everyone was cool. Will go out again next time the waves are up.

my face was cold, but other than that i was good.

I watched and took pictures yesterday. Overhead ++ is just too much for me.  I went from Sunset Cliffs, Tourmo, PB and Windandsea.


















Edited by seawolf - 09 November 2009 at 7:03am

dp at ob
relearned an important rule to surfing today

waves avg shoulder-head high. couple over head sets, but not many.
was out for an hour, caught 5 great waves.
last wave i saw the closeout section so i cut up the face to hit the lip.
was gonna do a rollo, but the wave broke right before i got to the lip.
still did the rollo, but not cause i wanted to the wave made me.
i got drove to the bottom, hit really hard. so hard i lost some of my air when i hit. was dragged along the sand for a few seconds. when i finally came up i was a little dizzy from holding my breath so long.
decided to just dive under the next wave instead of grabbing my board.
when i came up i got my board and paddled back out. a head high wave broke right behind me, but i got sucked over the falls and got tangled in seaweed. it actually tied around my legs so tight i couldn't kick.
i freaked out, started to panic. couldn't swim out or in, just kept taking waves on the head. finally i decided i'd try to catch some white water in to the beach.
kicking with both legs at the same time and using one arm to paddle i caught a wall of white water. while riding, the seaweed came off my legs.
i sat on the beach for 10 mins to compose myself, then walked to my car with my tail between my legs.

RULE #1: DO NOT PANIC, YOU MUST STAY RELAXED WHEN YOU WIPEOUT.

I went to Shores upon hearing via the SD lifeguard reports that it was 3-5 ft with good form, but it wasn't even close to that.  At most, it was 3ft, with more closeouts that rideable waves.

Should've stuck with my instincts and gone to Del Mar instead.  I'll head over there later this afternoon, see if anything's happening.